We have recreated this very traditional and elegant form of the plaid based on this description from The Kilt and How to Wear It, written by the Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, and published in 1901. He writes that the plaid "is an essential part of the Highland dress, and though fashion may have decreed and encouraged its disuse, yet the genius of the garb obviously requires and demands the addition of this graceful covering, without which -- which is the best proof of its necessity -- it neither looks, nor can be, complete." But he is not advocating for the popular modern forms of plaid (most especially the ubiquitous fly plaid), but rather a specific style, meant to best mimic the upper portion of the old belted plaid (or feilidh-mor). He describes it thusly.
"This plaid -- which can be of any soft, fine material, and whether of tartan, livery, or homespun it matters not -- should be worn much after the manner of the old belted plaid; that is to say, it should be worn with a belt, the sides of the plaid, as in the case of the kilt in its 'primitive form,' being pulled a little above the belt, and made to turn down over it in as graceful a manner as possible. When in this position, the plaid (which must have been previously separated in the middle by the hand, so as to discover the sporran) will give the appearance of being furnished with rings, which is just the appearance it gives in old portraits and prints, &c., and is emphatically, from every point of view, the end to be aimed at. The wings of the plaid should rest on the sides of the kilt at a distance of a foot or so from the edge nearest the knee; whilst the two ends of the plaid farthest from the wearer should be caught up and fastened by a brooch to the left shoulder, in the traditional manner... I may add that the plaid, when adjusted to the person, should depend backwards a few inches -- say, three or four -- below the edge of the kilt."
Based on this description and the accompanying illustrations showing the plaid worn front and back, we have recreated this style. To distinguish it from other modern forms of plaid, we are calling it the "half-belted plaid" as it sufficiently mimics the upper half of this historic garment. Created from two yards of double width material, the waist is tailored into pleats and belt loops attached to facilitate wear. The two upper corners are then drawn up and pinned at the shoulder.
Ideally, the tartan would match the cloth of the kilt, so that the two would look of one piece. When you order, information about your kilt (what mill wove the cloth, the fabric weight, etc.) will be helpful to selecting a tartan to match.
Based on this description and the accompanying illustrations showing the plaid worn front and back, we have recreated this style. To distinguish it from other modern forms of plaid, we are calling it the "half-belted plaid" as it sufficiently mimics the upper half of this historic garment. Created from two yards of double width material, the waist is tailored into pleats and belt loops attached to facilitate wear. The two upper corners are then drawn up and pinned at the shoulder.
Ideally, the tartan would match the cloth of the kilt, so that the two would look of one piece. When you order, information about your kilt (what mill wove the cloth, the fabric weight, etc.) will be helpful to selecting a tartan to match.
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How it's worn...
